From Berlin to Bangkok: Modern German food by the Sühring twins
In a city where German food offerings come in trios of wurst, sauerkraut and schnitzel, the arrival of Sühring’s light, contemporary fare is a total triumph. Using seasonal ingredients and a large dose of technical skill, Berliner twins Thomas and Mathias Sühring offer tasting menus of seasonal dishes inspired by their home country.
Modern German Food in a beautifully restored townhouse
Entering Sühring is like stepping into someone’s house. Located in the tranquil Yen Akat neighbourhood in the centre of Bangkok, the restaurant features a glass house overlooking a tropical garden, as well as an open kitchen where diners can see the chefs in action.
Dishes such as Brathering and Pfannkuchen are hardly duck confit and spaghetti carbonara in the familiarity stakes. But if the way the Sühring brothers render them is anything to go by, then they should be. (Fyi, the first is a traditional preparation for herring that the twins serve with spectacular simplicity, while the second is a sublime dough filled with truffle cream).
“German food is more than bratwurst and sauerkraut,” says Thomas. Mathias agrees and promises “a modern take on German cuisine using traditional ingredients in refreshing ways.”
The Sührings gained a loyal following due to dishes like Himmel und Erde (meaning Heaven and Earth), with crispy potatoes, black pudding and green apples, and Spätzle, a type of pasta found in southern Germany.
Their aptly named tasting menus Klassiker includes culinary highlights like the upmarket takes on Currywurst and Pork Knuckle while the Erlebnis (meaning experience) features seasonal creations from the chefs.
Two is better than one
It’s practically impossible to tell Thomas and Mathias Suhring apart, so to most people they’re simply known as “the twins”. The brothers were so successful in their previous home at Mezzaluna that the announcement of their first independent restaurant was met with a collective sigh of relief from Bangkok’s foodies.
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